| Europa Cellars Newsletter, 31st January 2012 |
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| Introduction What We're Drinking Clemens Busch Pre-arrival Bistro & Delicatessen - New Summer Menu |
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Dear Wine Aficionado,
This week we have been tucking into a delightful summery expression of Pinot Noir from producer Lucien Crochet. This wine comes from the Clos du Roy vineyards in Sancerre and is explosive with redcurrant, cranberry, red apple and soft green herbs on the nose, with piercing acidity, soft chalky tannins and a suprisingly long finish rounding out this moreish and very summery little wine. Our first offer of the new year seems right on so many levels. The Summer of Riesling is upon us (www.summerofriesling.com.au) with Paul Grieco from Terroir NY on our fair shores at this very moment. So it is with much excitement we bring you the wines of Weignut Clemens Busch from the Mosel. Since the mid 1980s Clemens and Rita Busch have been among the pioneers in the development of organic viticulture on the Mosel and are also using biodynamic practices. Clemens harvests his grapes extremely late and as such his wines have an incredible level of concentration and richness. These are wines not to be missed. And lastly this week we bring you our new summer menu. This menu reflects a tighter focus on foods that are suitable to the wine bar atmosphere and highlights the best of current seasonal produce. We had our tasting last night and it is the most excited we have been, pop past for a few shared dishes and see what all the hulabaloo is about... The Europa Cellars team; John, Aidan, Warren, Nick & Boon view newsletter online view newsletter as pdf What We're Drinking |
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| The Crochet domaine evolved through the marriage of the Crochet and Picard families, with the latter family having commenced its vineyard holdings in the Sancerre district as early as 1765. It was the great-grandfather of Lucien Crochet who first installed that part of the family in the region and it was in 1934 that the first bottling of wines occurred at the domaine. The domaine now is under the direction of Lucien Crochet and his son, Gilles. The Crochets have 31 hectares of vineyards planted in various parts of four communes: Bue [20 hectares], Vinon [4 hectares], Crezancy [4 hectares], and Sancerre [3 hectares]. Bue is located in the southern part of the Sancerre appellation and it is the smallest of the villages in this district. The Crochets are the largest single holders of vineyard property in Bue. The soil composition in this area yields wines that are highly aromatic with excellent balance; the wines are less rustic than Sancerre from other parts of this appellation. Of the 31 hectares in production, six are planted to Pinot Noir and are located in large part in the "Clos du Roy" and the "Cote de Bue". The Pinot is used to produce two different cuvees of Sancerre Rouge (the "Croix du Roy" and the "Cuvee Prestige LC")and about 15,000 bottles of Sancerre Pinot Rose. Total annual production at the Domaine Lucien Crochet is approximately 180,000 bottles. 2008 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Rouge 'la Croix du Roy' $49 The grapes were hand-picked and sorted a first time in the vineyard before being brought to the winery in 40 kg crates. They were then table-sorted before being completely destemmed. A belt was used to transfer the grapes into the tanks. Daily punching of the cap and pumping over of the must. Fermentation lasted 28 days. A belt was used for devatting. The grapes were gently pressed using a pneumatic press. Ageing: 50% in barrels and 50% in stainless steel tanks. |
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Clemens Busch Pre-arrival "Clemens and Rita Busch have been pioneers of organic wine growing in Germany since 1984 and have farmed biodynamically for some years now. This is rare in the Mosel where steep slopes deter most producers from employing the additional labour needed. The estate comprises 11 hectares, predominantly on the ‘First Growth’ Marienburg vineyard, that rises steeply from the Mosel, opposite the town of Pünderich. The Marienburg vineyard comprises three types of slate – red, blue and grey – and a number of unique parcels within the vineyard. This allows Clemens to make a large range of distinctive terroir-driven Rieslings which he distinguishes with the traditional names of the parcels, a practice that was largely abandoned in the ‘70s in favour of the Marienburg vineyard name. The estate is unique among its Mosel peers in that it produces around 70-80% dry wines. Late harvesting, skin contact, long slow natural ferments, long lees aging, ancient 1000l casks, a low sulphur regime (for the region), no fining and late bottling all ensure that these are among the richest, most concentrated, textural dry Rieslings produced in the Mosel, yet they still retain great purity and balance their opulent fruit with intense minerality. The sweet wines are widely regarded as some of the Mosel’s finest and most long-lived and have won the praise of domestic and international critics. These are simply some of the most exciting wines coming out of Germany today." Importers Note 2010 Riesling Trocken Gutsriesling $33 OFFER PRICE $26.35 Mostly sourced off grey slate on Marienburg, with a little coming off sandy loams on the other side of the river. Expect a light juicy style with fine floral and mineral notes and lemon, lime and peach fruits. 2010 Riesling Trocken ‘Vom Grauen Schiefer’ $49 OFFER PRICE $38.25 Sourced from grey slate, the most common of the three, on the top of Marienburg, and picked earlier. Intense slatey minerality with a little earthiness and pithy pear, citrus and peach fruits. Creamy but elegant. 2010 Riesling Trocken ‘Vom Roten Schiefer’ $49 OFFER PRICE $38.25 Fruit is sourced from Pündericher Nonnengarten, with its richer red-slate soils, and the Rothenpfad section of Marienburg, all steep, stony red slate. Spicy, herbal, and always with luscious, lovely texture. Less pure but more earthy and intense. A little more sweetness. 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er Grosses Gewachs $74 OFFER PRICE $58.65 From grey slate on an old part of Marienburg. Fine and pure style with slate, light spice and pretty, ripe citrus and yellow plum. Very fine and elegant in the mouth but there is a deceptive amount of richness and a rich mineral core. “Very ripe yellow stone fruit with a minerally scent, almost spirity. A wealth of flavour, keeps expanding. Ripe fruit, but not too exotic, with a tang of peel. The finish exhibits a dusty minerality and is very concentrated and long. Who says the Mosel can’t do trocken with body?” 18/20, Jancis Robinson “Black cherry, lemon oil and sweet herbs on the nose. Tropical fruits studded with a hint of nutmeg enliven the palate. The finish shows appealing balance and length. An excellent example of dry riesling from the Mosel.” 90 Points, Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er Grosses Gewachs 'Rothenpfad' $78 OFFER PRICE $61.20 Rothenpfad is the red slate parcel on Marienburg which gives a broader, earthier, spicier Riesling. Yellow plum with white and yellow flowers. Fairly open knit with earthy minerality and a soft texture. Yellow peach. Dry spicy, earthy/stony mineral finish. More expressive that the regular Marienburg GG. “On the nose pronounced apple peel with just a hint of the herbaceousness of spontaneous fermentation, quite spirity. Juicy and succulent fruit flavours bordering onto the exotic, but more grapefruit and lime than pineapple. A smidgeon of pith and some dusty minerality provide a perfect edge. A rich texture leads to a long finish.” 17.5 points, Jancis Robinson “Busch’s 2009 Pundericher Marienburg Rothenpfad Riesling Grosses Gewachs is far more expressive than its “regular” Grosses Gewachs counterpart, and features allspice- and ginger-tinged peach with juicy as well as bittersweetly pungent orange. Glossy and fairly full (at 13.5% alcohol), its hint of salinity lends salvia-inducing savor to a generous if very slightly warm finish. One portion of the final blend for this underwent malo-lactic transformation. It ought to perform well for at least 5-7 years.” 90 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 192 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er Grosses Gewachs 'Fahrlay' $92 OFFER PRICE $72.25 This is the only place in Pünderich where the blue slate dominates. The wines present themselves extremely concentrated and are characterised by a very intense and salty minerality. From the middle part of the vineyard. Very lifted and floral. Spiced yellow fruits, yellow apple, almost white pepper, gravelly minerality and rich yellow fruits, almost to honey. Super rich, concentrated and thickly textured. Again very ripe fruits but dry to taste. Incredibly persistent, dry finish with back of throat rich flavours. 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er 'Falkenlay' $78 OFFER PRICE $61.20 A single site of grey slate located between “Fahrlay” and “Rothenpfad”. The wines out of this vineyard present themselves rather creamy and substantial. So named because falcons nest in the rocks around the vineyard. Quite overt spice/white pepper. Ripe yellow plums, yellow peach, almost to quince. Great intensity. Very rich palate loaded with ripe yellow fruits and a little sweetness adding to the weight. Finishes with pithy pear and peach, fine minerals and light pepperiness. “Tasted just before bottling, the Busch 2009 Pundericher Marienburg Falkenlay Riesling mingles yeasty fermentative notes with high-toned distilled plum. It evinces a lovely interplay on a firm palate of distilled and fresh pit fruits with alkaline, stony, and bittersweetly herbal elements. Full and dry-tasting yet buoyant and with lip-smacking primary sap in its dynamic finish, this should prove yet more expressive and texturally refined once bottled and rested, and be worth following for at least 6-8 years.” 89-90 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 192 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er 'Felsterrasse' $124 OFFER PRICE $97.75 Another single site of grey slate. The very old vines from this special terrace-site produce a wine with an elegant minerality that never has an overbearing taste. It is only after the wine ages for a couple of years that its true spectrum of flavours reveals. This opens with warm spice notes with a captivating lifted floral scent. Rich and textural with more obvious sweetness adding weight. Sweet yellow peach and yellow apricot with quince. Juicy with a dry mineral finish and flavours of warm spice and warm stone. Outstanding freshness and balance. 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er 'Raffes' $157 OFFER PRICE $123.25 A special selection from extremely ripe, but healthy grapes from old vines out of “Falkenlay”. It’s a monument - extreme, deep and full of energy. Only 300 litres of this was made. Intensely spicy and perfumed. Yellow apricot, quince and cumquat. Deep and regal. Not sweet to taste at all. Juicy, tangy ripe citrus, pear and peach with a floral thread. Pithy light phenolic grip. Very long to the back of the throat. Haunting floral scent to the finish. 2010 Riesling Kabinett $34 OFFER PRICE $26.35 “Cask sample. Very faint nose at this early stage, hints of peel and herbs mingle with a light fragrance of spontaneous fermentation. Residual sugar appears quite high, managing to keep acidity in check. Attractive fruit, straightforward and pleasant.” 15.5 points, Jancis Robinson 2010 Riesling Marienburg 1er Kabinett $49 OFFER PRICE $38.25 “Apricot pit and sweet lime on the nose. The bright tropical fruit flavors are nicely balanced by spicy acidity. More on the sumptuous side, this kabinett nonetheless has a persistent, refreshing finish.” 88 points, Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 2008 Riesling Marienburg 1er Spatlese $61 OFFER PRICE $48.45 “Spruce resin, incense, pineapple, spiced apple cider, and quince are all evoked in the nose of Busch’s 2008 Pündericher Marienburg Riesling Spatlese, which then comes to the palate with a cooling herbal and juicy fruit character as well as with a combination of subtle creaminess and refreshment that are very vintage-typical. And this luscious though low alcohol and therefore unabashedly sweet Riesling is buoyant and soothingly persistent. I would anticipate 15 or more years of satisfaction, though those like me who prefer only a discreet sense of sweetness will need to wait a decade.” 90 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 187 2009 Riesling Marienburg 1er Auslese $114 OFFER PRICE $90.10 “Ginger, cardamom, vanilla, pear, caramel, and a whiff of yeast in the nose of Busch’s 2009 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese put me in mind of a freshly baked spice and pear cake, an impression mouth-wateringly reinforced by a creamy richness of texture and a deep, savory, saline, browned-butter streak. At the same time, the delicacy of this delectable Auslese borders on weightless. It can’t equal the intrigue, interplay, or sheer length of the corresponding Spatlese, but it, too, should be worthy of 20 years’ attention.” 92 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 192 2006 Riesling Marienburg Auslese 'Rothenpfad' 375ml $92 OFFER PRICE $72.25 “Smoky, dusty, and downright fungal manifestations of botrytis mark the nose of Busch’s 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Rothenpfad. On the palate, candied grapefruit rind, root beer, apple jelly and honey are backed by somewhat superficial sweetness but this plush, creamy, hugely concentrated wine is not in the least subtle in touting its manifest virtues. When it comes to the tactile pungency of finish, it’s hard to know where spice and nip of botrytis and fruit skin leave off and crushed stone minerality begins. But this will never have the clarity or sheer juiciness of its lesser siblings, and my guess is it will always be more striking than fun, and wear its botrytis as a slightly coarse, not entirely noble robe. In any case, those hoping to test my hypothesis could well wait twenty years or more.” 89 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 179 2009 Riesling Marienburg Auslese 'Fahrlay' 375ml $98 OFFER PRICE $77.35 “Ginger, nutmeg, pineapple, yellow plum, and lemon, on the nose of the Busch 2009 Pündericher Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling Auslese make a bright splash on the palate, which however simultaneously displays seductive creaminess of texture. There’s no mistaking the extra charge of acidity combined with almost gravity-defying buoyancy here the points to desiccated berries. And there is a formidable sheer sense of grip to accompany the electric charge administered in a finish of implosive fruit concentration and invigorating spiciness that nevertheless also reveals a hint of caramel. Expect this to perform admirably for at least 25 years and probably longer.” 93 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 192 2009 Riesling Marienburg Auslese 'Falkenlay' 375ml $106 OFFER PRICE $83.30 This was very close to achieving Goldkapsel for the vintage. “An alkaline note in the nose of Busch’s 2009 Pündericher Marienburg Falkenlay Riesling Auslese – along with vanilla, caramel, white peach preserves, and pear drops – establish the theme for a scintillating interplay of mineral, confectionary, and confitured elements on a creamy, levitating palate. With ravishing refinement and superb length, this should continue to stage successful seduction for the better part of three decades and perhaps even beyond.” 93 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate # 192 download order form Bordeaux Primeur 2010 “It is an inescapable truth that 2010 has produced another year of compelling Bordeaux that will go down as a prodigious vintage alongside 2009.” Robert Parker The first big wave of offers has come in from Bordeaux 2010. These wines are expected to arrive in late 2013, please note the single bottle price applies to all orders where cases are mixed, the full case per bottle price only applies to full unbroken cases. Get in early to avoid missing out on yet another terrific vintage from Bordeaux. download reviews download order form Bistro & Delicatessen This week sees the introduction of our new summer menu. The new dishes reflect the fresh seasonal produce available and the new format of smaller shared style dishes is in more in line with the our current direction. We had a staff tasting at the start of the week and without a doubt this is the best menu we have put together. Pop in and see what has us all excited... Opening Hours Monday 7:30am-4pm Tuesday-Friday 7:30am-8pm Saturday 8:30am-8pm Sunday 8:30am-2pm download NEW summer menu On Saturday 10 April 2004, new Australian Federal Government legislation came into force that requires that no unsolicited emails be sent without the permission of the recipient. Europa Cellars has an email database and sends out periodic newsletters or special offers to especially interested clients. If you do not wish to receive further newsletters or special offers from Europa Cellars in the future, please advise by emailing wine@europacellars.com.au . Alternatively, if you subscribed via our website you may visit the following link to unsubscribe the same way. http://ethreemail.com/e3ds/u.php?g=a1fc2f1a |
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Europa Cellars 150 Wellington Parade East Melbourne VIC Australia 3002
p. +61 (3) 9417 7220 f.+61(3) 9417 7223 e. wine @europacellars .com.au ABN 78 102 566 781 License no. 32053562 |
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